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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.